3. Models from top mother agencies have more opportunities to be represented by top agencies worldwide. International agencies when choosing partners attach great importance to size, life in the market and the reputation of the mother agency. Consequently, it is better for models to be represented by a big and famous mother agency.

4. In different markets the role of mother agency varies. It is possible that in different markets the mother agency has a different impact on the development of the model's career, for example, the agency's roles in Russia and Asia may differ.

The main method of the research are in-depth interviews which makes the study qualitative.

The core advantage of in-depth interview is that it is conducted one on one and in this case the influence of other people on the interviewee is excluded. Moreover, this method is a unique opportunity to learn information, which cannot be received from other resources. A supplementary advantage is the fact that there is an opportunity to ask additional and clarifying questions and to get an answer to them as quickly as possible. Each interview was conducted personally or via Skype, in view of the loaded schedules of the interviewees or the inability to meet in person as an example, with representatives of Asian agencies. The duration of each interview was approximately 30 minutes.

To study the problem on each side the interview was taken from three main groups: representatives of the mother and international agencies, as well as from the models themselves. All names have been encrypted for anonymity. This decision was made due to the fact that models and agencies representatives are worried about the leak of interview results, which can lead to negative consequences for the career and business in general. In this case, information about the age of the models and the number of their travels to contracts remained open. As a result, we conducted 3 interviews with Russian mother agencies located in Moscow and Saint Petersburg and 3 interviews with international ones from South Korea, China and Japan respectively. Ten models from different Russian cities also shared their opinion on the topic. Special questions were developed for each group of interviewees. Thereby, each interview pursued different goals. In the case of mother agencies, it was important for us to understand how they see their role themselves, how they build relationships with models in their agency and how they work with Asian agencies. In particular, we were interested in the number of contracts concluded and the advantages of Asia compared to other model markets. Representatives of the international agencies also shared their vision of the role of the mother ones and answered questions to help determine work satisfaction with the mother agencies, besides they determined the specifics of their modeling market. Also, the issue of choosing mother agencies for work was raised. The questions for the models were aimed at determining the main stakeholders in the market from their point of view. Additionally, as in the case of agencies representatives, to determine the role of the mother agency in their own career and satisfaction with its work and the percentage that the mother agency charges for it.

The responses received were coded to simplify further processing and identify major trends. Searching of semantic units in the answers and the coding of the interview itself was done manually through the Excel program. This data processing method was selected because the amount of the interviewees is relatively small. Moreover, despite the fact that currently there are many programs for automatic data coding, the manual method allows to perform work more precisely, with the least error.

The responses received were also analyzed by the stakeholder theory. For this purpose, the power-interest model developed by Freeman (1984) was selected. The benefit of this approach is that it is one of the most used and, accordingly, the most studied and augmented. Furthermore, it helps to discover where is a real power among all stakeholders and to create an optimal communication strategy with them.

It should also be noted the reasons for which there were no other possible research methods. Firstly, modeling sphere is not sufficiently studied. Moreover, studies of the Russian modeling market are particularly small. Statistics related to mother and international agencies does not exist, or it is in closed access. Thus, work with databases is currently impossible method of research for us.

However, there are some potential limitations in our chosen methods. In-depth interview requires a lot of time spent on preparation and conduct itself. There is also the risk of reducing the quality of the information received due to unsuccessful questions or the influence of the interviewer. Regarding the definition of stakeholders' roles, there is a possibility of big variation of results for each country or even an agency. Thus, determining the overall trend can be difficult.

In this way, during the interviews we tried to ask questions as accurately as possible, to be sure that our respondents understood what they were being asked. Also, manual coding has been applied for responses, which reduces the likelihood of system error. And the ratio of the results of the interview with the stakeholder theory was performed with an objective approach. All this is done to obtain clear results, identify the correct trends and further develop the necessary results.

RESULTS

After in-depth interviews and their encodings (Appendix 1, Appendix 2, Appendix 3) we conducted 3 tables (Appendix 4, Appendix 5, Appendix 6) for each group of respondents (models, mother agencies and international agencies). All questions and answers of the interview were encoded by highlighting the units of meaning. The table header contains information about the interviewee. So, for models this is the age and number of trips, for mother agencies and international agencies, these are cities and countries, respectively. The table is divided into blocks, as well as in the interview protocols themselves. The left column contains selected semantic units, which are mentioned by all participants in the interview. The right side of the table contains the characters 1 and 0. In this case, the number 1 means that this semantic unit was present in the answer of the interviewee, 0 indicates the absence of this unit.

The results of interviews with models are presented in the Appendix 4.

The first block of questions was aimed at identifying the main stakeholders, as well as the main market of models' work (Table 4).

Table 4

Identification of stakeholders and the main market*

	М1	М2	М3	М4	М5	М6	М7	М8	М9	М 10
Age	18	20	18	20	18	14	17	16	21	22
Trips	4	2	1	7	11	3	4	2	5	12
Stakeholders
International agency	0	0	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0
Model	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	0	1	1
Mother agency	0	0	1	1	1	0	1	1	1	1
Final decision
Model	1	0	1	1	1	1	1	1	1	1
Model's parents	0	0	0	0	0	1	1	1	0	0
Mother agency	1	1	1	1	0	0	1	1	0	0
Working countries
China	1	1	1	1	1	0	0	1	1	1
Japan	0	0	0	1	0	1	0	0	0	0
South Korea	1	0	0	1	0	1	1	0	0	0
Reasons for work in countries above
Availability of a work visa	0	0	0	0	0	1	1	0	0	0
Fall in love with Asia	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Money	0	0	1	1	1	0	0	0	1	1
Not suitable measurements for other countries	1	1	0	0	0	0	0	1	0	0

The average age of the models interviewed was approximately 18 years. The youngest is 14 years old, the oldest is 22 years old. The average number of business trips is 5. During the study beginner models were interviewed and experienced ones with the number of trips 12.

Opinions of models responding to the question of which parties are more influencing their careers are divided. Absolute majority point out that basically the model's career depends on model herself. This includes such parameters of the model as type, figure, charisma and the ability to properly present themselves at the castings. However, more than half also noted the mother agency, which is working on finding contracts.

Judging by the interviews, the final decision regarding the country of work and the term of the contract is not made by the mother agency, but by the model itself. For example, most models are currently studying at school or university, so it is important for them to be able to combine work with study and usually mother agencies compromise in this case. Also, young models under the age of 18 are controlled by their parents, it is the parents who sign all contracts. It turns out that in their situation the parents have the last word.

As expected, the most popular destination of work among the respondents is fast-growing China. South Korea ranks second in popularity, followed by Japan. Also, judging by the responses, Korea is more popular among young models and at the same time, the youngest respondents have never worked in China. All the others were there at least once.

Each model has its own reasons for choosing Asia as a region for work. The most significant factor, which noted the majority of models, is the fee received for the work. They note that earnings in Asia are significantly different from Europe and America by several times. Moreover, model parameters play a meaningful role in which country he or she will go. The most frequent remark is made about the height and the type, for instance, baby face models with the height 170 centimeters are more in demand in Asia than in Europe. Another frequently mentioned reason for choosing Asia is the age of the model and the opportunity to arrange a work visa for her. Models under the age of 17 cannot work in Europe, but they are suitable for Asia. One of the 10 respondents mentioned, among other reasons to work in this region, the love of Asian culture.

The second set of questions was aimed at identifying the role of the mother agency in the model's career (Table 5).

Table 5

Role of the mother agency*

	М1	М2	М3	М4	М5	М6	М7	М8	М9	М 10
Age	18	20	18	20	18	14	17	16	21	22
Trips	4	2	1	7	11	3	4	2	5	12
Reasons of interaction with MA
Clarification of details	1	1	1	0	0	1	1	1	0	0
Future trips	0	0	0	1	0	1	1	0	0	1
Problems with international agency	0	0	1	1	1	0	0	0	1	0
Channels of interaction with MA
Email	0	0	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0
Messengers	1	1	0	1	1	0	1	0	1	0
Social networks	0	1	1	1	0	1	1	1	0	1
Telephone	0	0	0	0	0	1	0	1	0	0
MA assistance
Answer questions	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	1	1	0
Contract searching	0	1	1	0	0	0	0	1	0	0
Organization of test-shootings	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Problems with international agency	1	1	0	1	0	1	1	0	1	0
None	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	1
Problems with MA
Communication	0	0	0	1	1	0	0	0	0	1
Contract searching	0	1	0	1	0	1	0	0	1	1
Extra high commission	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1	0
Local market work prohibition	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Strict measurement requirements	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1
None	1	0	0	0	0	0	1	1	0	0
MA's role in the career
Main	1	1	1	1	0	1	1	1	1	0
Secondary	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	1
MA's actions in building career
Control measurements	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Forms portfolio	1	0	0	0	0	1	0	1	0	0
Gives advice	1	1	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0
Provides services	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1	0
Searching good contracts	0	1	1	1	0	1	1	0	1	0
None	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	1
Experience with other MA
Yes, bad	1	1	0	0	1	1	0	0	0	0
None	0	0	1	1	0	0	1	1	1	1

mother agency asian market

The main issues to discuss with the mother agency are clarification of details of contracts, tickets and travel in general, as well as any problems with the international agency in the host country. Each interviewed model mentioned all the points equally.

The main channels of communication with the agency are social networks and mobile messengers such as WhatsApp and WeChat for models working in China. Also, some mentioned email and phone conversations.

The models were asked in which working situations the mother agency helps them. The most popular answer is that the mother agency helps solve any problems with the international agency, 6 out of 10 models mentioned this. The following answers by the number of mentions are about search for contracts and advice on all issues. 2 models out of 10 answered that mother agency does not help them and they are forced to deal with their own problems and questions.

Speaking of difficulties ever arising with a mother agency, some mother agencies are not engaged in models' career development, namely, they are looking for contracts for models for too long or are not looking for them at all. Some models may be listed in the mother agency for a year or more, but they do not have a single business trip in the portfolio. This problem is most common in modeling sphere, 4 out of 10 models encountered a similar attitude, the rest are aware of this fact only from the stories of friends. Also, some models are worried about poor communication with the agency, namely the long responses of agency representatives in emergency situations. Additionally, strict measurement requirements may become a problem. One respondent shared her story when the agency insisted on a strict diet and weight loss while the model was tall and had suitable measurements. In that situation, the agency did not accept the argument that with even less weight the model would look sick and unattractive. In some agencies, models face an increased percentage that agencies charge for their work. It also causes confusion and discontent. Only 3 models out of 10 answered that they never had problems with their mother agencies. Some blamed it on luck, and some on a little experience in the modeling field.

8 models out of 10 are sure that the mother agency plays a major role in their career. And answering the question of how exactly they think the agency helps them develop their careers, models talked about finding trustful international agencies and contracting them. For 6 models out of 10 this is the main help of the mother agency. In addition, the agency deals with the portfolio of the model, arranges shootings with good photographers, and also gives advice on how to behave at casting with clients. As well as in the case of the question about working situations, 2 models out of 10 answered that the agency is not engaged in the development of their career.

6 models out of 10 have never been in other mother agencies. 4 out of 10 models had a negative experience with them.

The last block of the interview was aimed at understanding the satisfaction of the models with the mother agency's work (Table 6).

Table 6

Satisfaction with mother agency's work*

	М1	М2	М3	М4	М5	М6	М7	М8	М9	М 10
Age	18	20	18	20	18	14	17	16	21	22
Trips	4	2	1	7	11	3	4	2	5	12
Expectations with MA work
Satisfied	0	1	1	0	1	0	0	1	1	0
Not satisfied	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0
None	1	0	0	0	0	1	1	0	0	1
Appreciate in MA work
Attention	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0
Contract searching speed	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0
Efficiency	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1
Professionalism	0	0	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0
Responsiveness	1	1	0	1	0	0	1	1	1	0
Support	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1
Trust	0	0	0	0	0	1	1	0	0	0
Satisfaction with MA work
Probably yes	1	1	1	1	0	1	1	1	1	1
Probably no	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0
Dislike in MA work
Bad attitude	0	0	0	1	0	1	0	0	0	0
High commission	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	1	1	0
Lack of assistance	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0
Problems with communication	0	1	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	1
Problems with informational flows	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	0	1
Unprofessionalism	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	0	0	1
None	1	0	0	1	0	1	0	0	0	0
MA commission corresponds with their job
Probably yes	1	0	0	0	0	1	1	1	0	0
Arguably	0	1	1	1	0	0	0	0	1	0
Probably no	0	0	0	0	1	0	0	0	0	1
Be freelance model
Maybe later	1	1	1	1	1	0	0	1	0	1
No	0	0	0	0	0	1	1	0	1	0

To begin with, we decided to find out if the models had any expectations from working with the mother agency and whether they were justified. 4 out of 10 did not have any expectations, mostly because of harmful previous experience. The rest of respondents expected fast career growth and learning the basics of modeling business, 4 models met their expectations.

Then the models were asked what they value most in their work with the mother agency. Most replied that this is a responsiveness, which means sympathy of agency representatives to requests and problems of models, sincere interest in them as individuals. Attention, speed of finding contracts, efficiency, professionalism, support and trust were also mentioned among the responses were also mentioned. Soft skills of agency representatives are mainly important for models because they are mentioned most often. 9 out of 10 interviewed models are satisfied with the work of their mother agencies.

High commission is often mentioned in the context of what models do not like when working with an agency. Then, bad attitude and problems with communication follow. Information flows also take place as the information goes through several levels from the model to the director of the mother agency and even more to the international agency and there is a lot of bureaucracy at work. Wherein 3 out of 10 models do not see any negative points in work with the mother agency.

Models were asked about whether the percentage charged by the mother agency corresponds to the quantity and quality of the work it does. 4 out of 10 models unequivocally agreed that the percentage is fair. These respondents were young models from 14 to 18 years old. 2 models are sure that the percentage is too big, while others are not sure about their answer.

Finally, we decided to learn models' opinion on freelance work. 3 models (14, 17 and 21 years old) are strongly opposed. The rest are ready to consider this option in the future, since at the moment some are not ready to face a complicated paperwork procedure or do not have enough work experience to earn separately from the agency.

The results of interviews with international agencies are presented in the Appendix 5.

The first block of questions was aimed at identifying the specific of Asian modeling market (Table 7).

Table 7

Specific of Asian modeling market*

	IA1	IA2	IA3
Country	South Korea	China	Japan
Key differences of market in the country
Customers with different taste	0	1	1
Many models in agencies	0	1	0
Multi fashion models	1	0	1
Countries from which models come more often
Brazilia	1	0	0
Romania	1	0	0
Russia	1	1	1
Ukraine	1	1	1
Reasons (point above)
Countries are more near	0	1	0
Good white skin and body proportion	0	1	0
Models from other countries are too mature	1	0	0
Models' differences from local models
Body structure	1	1	1
Help brand look more luxury	1	0	0
Various hair and eye color	0	0	1
White skin	0	1	1

Directors of 3 international agencies from South Korea, China and Japan were interviewed in this paper.

Describing the features of the Asian modeling market all agencies emphasized their specifics. Korean agency focused on multi fashion models, highlighting the models who can work in many directions, such as commercials, street fashion, homeshopping. The Chinese agency focused on big part of Chinese agencies have many models at the same time and the fact that customers prefer different model type. Beijing is more into tall female models around 178, for magazine and some fashion show while Shanghai and Hangzhou prefer model female with 170 - 177 not too tall, because the market focus on shooting job. Japan also highlighted that the market is huge - amount of production and clients are still developing, which makes the market balanced and fast.

Talking about the countries from which models come more often, all agencies mentioned Russia and Ukraine. Also South Korea alluded countries such as Brazilia and Romania.

The main reasons to choose models from these countries are good white skin and body proportion, models from other countries are too mature for Asian market and that Asian countries are located more near to Russia and Ukraine.

Moreover international agencies were asked about arrived models' differences from local models. All agencies, without exception, stressed different body structure as the main criterion. The second point is white skin mentioned by China and Japan. Also Korean agency stated that the brand look more luxury using advertisement with euro-looking model. The same time Japanese agency convinced that models from Russia and Ukraine have various hair and eye color, while local models look uniformly.

The second set of questions was aimed at identifying the role of the mother agency in the model's career by the view of international agencies (Table 8).

Table 8

Role of the mother agency *

	IA1	IA2	IA3
Country	South Korea	China	Japan
Channels of interaction with MA
Email	1	1	1
Facebook	1	1	1
Instagram	0	1	0
Vk	0	1	0
WeChat	0	1	0
WhatsApp	1	0	0
Functions of MA
Searching models	1	1	1
Sending models to IA	1	1	1
Teaching new faces	0	1	0
Functions of IA
Create portfolio	1	1	1
Fair payment	1	0	1
Model's promotion on the local market	1	1	1
Model's safety	1	1	1
Provide castings	1	1	1
Provide jobs	1	1	1
Teaching new faces	0	1	0

The main channels of communication with mother agencies are Email and Facebook. Also, some mentioned Instagram, Vk, WeChat and WhatsApp. Analysis of the interviews showed that China is more flexible with ways of communication.

Despite the fact that all international agencies are located in different countries their vision of functions of mother agency and international agency is about the same. They all claimed that mother agency is responsible for searching models and sending them to international agencies. Also China stated that mother agency should take part in teaching new faces.

The functions of international agency all countries included: creating portfolio, providing castings and jobs, taking part into model's promotion on the market of their country and keeping model's safety. In turn, South Korea and Japan considered it necessary to mention providing fair payment. Chinese agency again mentioned teaching new faces as a key function.

In other words: International agency takes care of model during the contract, mother agency supports with visa, managing and solving problems.

The last block of the interview was aimed at understanding the satisfaction of the international agencies with the mother agency's work (Table 9).

Table 9

Satisfaction with mother agency's work *

	IA1	IA2	IA3
Country	South Korea	China	Japan
Problems with MA
Communication	1	0	1
MA doesn't really see their models	0	1	0
MA hides actual facts about models	0	0	1
Average amount of partners
30	1	1	0
40	0	0	1
Criteria for selecting partners
Interested in model they propose	1	0	1
How model corresponds their information	0	1	1
Immediacy in work	1	1	1
Sense of responsibility	0	1	0

There are not many problems which international agencies deal with mother agencies. Usually problems come from model side: not in shape, canceling contract, etc. Moreover, South Kore and Japan complained about time difference. The progress of work gets delayed frequently because of different time zones. Due to the fact that in most instances mother agencies are located in different cities or even countries there is a problem that mother agency doesn't really see their model. In some cases they intentionally hide actual facts about models to get them to reach a good contract condition.

Concerning average amount of partners Japan has leading position with 40 contacts. South Korea and China have about 30 partners with whom they are usually deal with.

Immediacy in work is the main aspect which was mentioned by all international agencies as the fundamental criterion for selecting partners. This fact is most likely to be on top because the model world is quite dynamic and often occur situations which need immediate reaction and solution. Model level and model attitude also is basically the most important thing for agencies in China and Japan. For some agencies the main criterion is suitable types for the market.

The results of interviews with mother agencies are presented in the Appendix 6.

The first block of questions was aimed at identifying the role of the mother agency in the model's career by the view of mother agencies themselves (Table 10).

Table 10

Role of the mother agency *

	MA1	MA2	MA3	MA4
City	Moscow	Novosibirsk	Moscow	Saint-Petersburg
Functions of MA
Models development	1	1	1	1
Models placement	1	1	1	1
Models scouting	0	1	0	0
Models support	0	0	1	1
Criteria for selecting partners
Attitude to models and MA	0	0	1	0
Good reputation	0	1	1	1
Matching between agency and model level	1	1	0	0
Quantity and quality of given jobs	0	0	1	0

To complete this research the representatives of the 4 leading agencies in Russia, based in Moscow, Saint-Petersburg and Novosibirsk were interviewed.

To observe the functions of the mother agency from their side is quite important in understanding the role of the mother agency in the model's career. The mother agency's participation in model's life could be divided into 3 parts: scouting, development and placement. The scouting means that the agency needs to find a person with suitable appearance in which they see perspective of working as a model in a particular market. The development refers to portfolio creation and clear plan and structure formation of model's promotion. The placement means that mother agency cooperates with international agencies to find the best contract condition to a particular model. Moreover, 2 agencies from Moscow and Saint-Petersburg convinced that models support is also significant function of mother agency - model needs the advice of experienced people about weight loss or the revision in calculations for example.

As mentioned earlier - the mother agency's aim is to find a good contract for model with the international agency. Therefore, the criteria that mother agencies pay attention to choosing partners were identified. Good reputation of the international agency is the core factor they notice. They rely not only on the experience of models, but also on the experience of other mother agencies. There is also a private community for MA on Facebook where they share their opinions about a particular IA. 2 agencies are convinced that the international agency should be chosen for each model specifically - it happens that in the top agency the model earns nothing and returning to the agency weaker - takes home millions. Some agencies consider that quantity and quality of given jobs and attitude to models and themselves are also significant moments for selecting partners.

Table 11

Building the relationship with models *

	MA1	MA2	MA3	MA4
City	Moscow	Novosibirsk	Moscow	Saint-Petersburg
Ways of models promotion
Contract searching	1	1	1	1
Creating portfolio	0	1	1	0
Helping with advice	0	1	1	0
Revising plan	0	1	0	0
Teaching new faces	0	1	0	0
Keeping in touch with model	0	1	0	1
Model is promoted by IA	1	0	0	0
Final decision
Model	0	0	1	1
Model's parents	0	0	0	1
Mother agency	1	1	1	1
The ~ number of contracts with IA for model
4 - 5	1	0	0	0
Difficult to answer	0	1	1	1
The dependence of the amount (point above)
IAs' feedback	0	1	0	1
Model's desire	0	1	1	1
Study at school/university	1	0	1	0
Working market	1	0	0	0
Problems with models
Bad personality	0	1	0	1
Excess weight	1	1	1	1
Lack of English	0	0	0	1
Mental instability	1	0	0	0
Model's parents	0	0	1	1
Skin/hair problems	0	1	0	1
Unwillingness to work	0	1	0	0

The second set of questions was about building the relationship between mother agency and models (Table 11).

To begin with, mother agencies were asked about ways of models promotion. Despite the fact that their opinion concerning this point are various, almost all agencies refer to the fact that the contract searching is the main aspect in this question. Also, great part of models come to the modeling sphere without any experience, so mother agencies need to be responsible for creating the portfolio, teaching new faces and helping with advice. Fashion market trends are very changeable, so they need to be flexible and be able to revise model plan. But on the other hand, mother agency from Moscow believes that in models promotion taking part just international agency in the country she comes to work.

Earlier we concluded that in most of cases models regard that they are playing the main role in final decision regarding the country of work and the term of the contract. However, interviewing mother agencies revealed that they all believe that they makes the final decision about contract terms. In one case the agency claimed that they negotiate with models jointly. And in another case model's parents also take part and sign a contract.

The question about the average number of contracts with international agencies for model was quite difficult to answer. The circumstances of this are that sometimes it could be 1-2 contracts - this is a model that is not ready to work on a permanent basis, she is probably still in school or university. Or the agency can sign 8-10 contracts. Most likely it will be a model that works in the European, American and Asian markets nonstop. Therefore, in general it is almost impossible to calculate.

As I mentioned before there are various causes of this phenomenon, such as studying at school or university or model's desire. The feedback of international agencies also was alluded as the reason affecting the number of model contracts - for some models mother agencies need to spend moths to find a good contract, for some - just a couple hours is enough. One agency from Moscow noticed that working market influence because the average duration of contract in China, for example, is about 3 months when one contract to Greece lasts 1 month.

There are a list of problems with which mother agencies face during work with models. But there is just one point which was marked by all agencies - model's excess weight. Some models can be rude with host agencies and clients. Some have skin and hair problems. Model's parents who are based on false stereotypes and do not allow their child to do modeling and go for a contract could be a problem for great part of mother agencies. Lack of English, mental instability and unwillingness to work due to relationships or family circumstances are also a big challenge.

The last block of the interview was aimed at tracing the сcooperation of mother agency with the Asian market (Table 12).

Table 12

Cooperation with the Asian market *

	MA1	MA2	MA3	MA4
City	Moscow	Novosibirsk	Moscow	Saint-Petersburg
Market is most often cooperate with
American	0	0	0	0
Asian	1	1	1	1
European	0	0	0	0
Reasons (point above)
Getting experience	1	0	0	0
Market loyalty	0	0	1	0
Money	1	1	1	0
Suitable model age	0	0	0	1
Suitable model type	0	0	1	0
Advantages of Asian market
New faces acceptance	1	0	1	0
High payment	1	1	1	1
Market loyalty	0	1	0	0
Good pictures	0	1	1	1
Young model age	0	0	0	1
Differences between relations with IA in Asia and others
More positioned to contact	0	1	1	0
More loyal	0	0	1	0
Fast market changes	0	0	0	1
None	1	0	0	0

As expected, the most popular destination of work among the respondents is fast-growing Asia. All interviewed agencies prefer to cooperate with Asian market with the most frequency. The same result was conducted by interviewing models.

The most significant factor, which noted all mother agencies, is the fee received for the work. They agree with models about the fact that earnings in Asia are significantly different from Europe and America by several times. Other reasons such as Asian market is good for getting experience, have model suitable type and suitable age that allow young models receive working visa, market loyalty were mentioned once.

The advantages of Asian market is quite close with the reasons why mother agencies prefer to cooperate with Asia: high payment, market loyalty and availability to receive working visa for young age model. In addition, most respondents believe that Asia is a perfect region to make good pictures in portfolio. Both agencies from Moscow considered that Asia is more open to beginners with no experience.

And the last point was referred to differences between mother agency relations with international agencies in Asia comparing with other countries. From this issue we can conclude that the agencies in Asian market are more conducive to contact (quite often the representatives of international agencies write to mother agencies requesting the models by themselves). Also the market has a tendency to quickly change its trends, so mother agency needs to be susceptible to understand that. However, one agency does not see the difference in cooperation between Asian agencies and others.

After analyzing all the interviews, we can return to the theory of stakeholders. In this paper were observed approaches of analysis: Freeman model and Mitchell, Agle and Wood model. To consider our case with the second model, unfortunately, is not possible due to the fact that in the model's career involved just a few stakeholders. So we will consider our occasion from the point of view by typology of impact strategies and resource relationships. Based on the interview, we can state that both agencies and models influence each other and conclude that in our case there is direct consumption strategy with high interdependence.

Moreover, based on the received answers we can suppose that models are divided into 2 groups: beginners (or new faces) and experienced models. The first one is strongly believe that they need mother agencies. In turn, all the functions and duties of the mother agencies are also aimed at new faces: scouting, portfolio creating, teaching, contract searching. Experienced model in most cases do not need mother agency because she already have a rich portfolio and a list of international agencies where she can return to work. In this situation, the work of the mother agency is reduced to zero and the received commission for model's work becomes unfair.

Taking into account the current trends of the model industry we suppose that the solution to the problem above could be an online-platform MODEL LINE. Its breadboard can be checked here (https://modelline6.wixsite.com/mdln) or in the Appendix 7 with working QR-code. The idea of this platform is to be a line between models and international agencies. Now, they do not need to pay commission to mother agency. To be registered on the site and have access to the database necessary to go through a strict moderation. Models need to provide current measurements, portfolio, snapshots, polaroids and composites. In other words to convince that she is a professional model with experience. International agency must provide license for legal work in the host country and prove that they have all the necessary conditions for comfortable model's work. The platform is also planned to have a database of photographers to let models and agencies replenish model's portfolio.

A great advantage of the online-platform is the ability to filter the sample for both models and agencies. Models can choose agency by country/city, wanted model type and check the rating and reviews of models who already work with them. International agency can sort models by nationality, measurements, the dates she is available and also check the rating and reviews of other international agencies. After sending the request and satisfying with each other and contract condition model and international agency start cooperation.

However, there are some threats with which this idea can face. Firstly, it will not be easy to convince participants to abandon the usual way of interaction. Nevertheless this problem could be solved with free trial period. Second one is that the existence of this system will take millions from the hypothetical earnings of mother agencies and they will try to break the server. This challenge is solved by increased protection of the server with firewalls and SSH-keys.

CONCLUSION

Drawing conclusions from the research, modeling work in Asia is becoming increasingly popular due to the rapid growth of the fashion market there and, accordingly, high demand for models who could advertise manufactured goods. Also, Asia is becoming an admired destination for models themselves due to high pay compared to the European and American markets. For models, it is important to choose the right mother agency, which will be engaged in their career development and in finding trustworthy international agencies. However, currently some models prefer to work without a mother agency, believing that it does not affect career development in any way.

A qualitative study of the modeling market was conducted to examine the problem of the role of the mother agency in the career of model working in the Asian market. And answer the questions: “What is the role of mother agency in model's career? Who plays the key role in decision making?”, “What are the features of work as a model in Asian countries?” and “Is it possible to replace mother agency's duties with an online platform? Why?”.

In-depth interviews were conducted with representatives of the model-mother agency-international agency chain. In addition, the relationships of this chain were considered by the stakeholder theory. Opinions of representatives were collected regarding the role of the mother agency, satisfaction with the percentage it receives for the work, possible difficulties in working with it. Likewise, the reasons for the growing interest of Russian models in working with Asian model agencies were identified.

Overall, the results show that young models under 18 years old are particularly in need of a mother agency. In their careers, the mother agency plays a key role, since some agencies not only look for international agencies and contracts, but also teach models of the basics of the profession. At the same time, some models may be left out of a successful career because of the incompetence of the representatives of the mother agency. In this regard, models have thoughts about working as a freelancer. This option is considered a model with a sufficiently extensive experience, a good portfolio and established relationships with international agencies. The platform we described in the previous chapter will be useful for them.

In general, model responses converge with each other. For many of them, it is important to have a connection with the mother agency while working abroad, it is also important for them to feel and see that their career is really developing. The interviewed mother agencies try to listen to the opinion of the models and the main difficulty while working with the model for them is changes in her appearance (skin condition, measurements). Agencies do not always manage to motivate models to correct their shortcomings. The international agencies are positively tuned to models from Russia, since their type fully corresponds to what is needed in the market. One of the problems with mother agencies for them is that some of mother agencies prefer to hide or keep back some facts about models, for example, their height or parameters. Also, appreciating the Asian modeling market, all parties agree that it is promising and its main advantage for models is that they can make good money there compared to the European and American markets.

All the results obtained are a part of a relatively new branch in the field of analysis of fashion market, which can be useful for studying the modeling industry, as well as for mother agencies themselves. The interview results show clear advantages and disadvantages of mother agencies. Therefore, directors of modeling agencies now know what to look for in analysis of their business and what possibly requires a change in order to be in demand in the market. Furthermore, the developed idea of an online platform for communication between models and international agencies can be a profitable project for entrepreneurs.

The research could be further developed in several ways. Firstly, it could be improved on the part of the number of people interviewed. Also, questionnaires could be used as they allow to get the opinion of a larger number of people. Lately, with large sample these results could be used for further analysis using quantitative methods. Secondly, the study could become a project one if develop the platform previously proposed. So, it will be possible to analyze the idea from the side of marketing, develop a minimum viable product.

REFERENCES

1. Adler, N and Aycan, Z. (2018). Cross-Cultural Interaction: What We Know and What We Need to Know. Annual Review of Organizational Psychology and Organizational Behavior, 5, 307-333.

2. Assmann S. (2018). Consumption of Fast Fashion in Japan Local Brands and Global Environment. Consuming Life in Post-Bubble Japan: A Transdisciplinary Perspective. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press, 49-67.

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5. Cachon G. and Swinney R. (2011). The Value of Fast Fashion: Quick Response, Enhanced Design, and Strategic Consumer Behavior. Management Science, 57(4), 778-795.

6. Chreмtien-Ichikawa S. (2015). Shanghai, a Creative Fashion System Under Construction. China Perspectives, 3(103), 33-41.

7. Clarkson M. (1995). A Stakeholder Framework for Analyzing and Evaluating Corporate Social Performance. The Academy of Management Review, 20(1), 92-117.

8. Crosby B. (2010). A publication of USAID's Implementing Policy Change Project: Stakeholder Analysis: A Vital Tool for Strategic Managers

9. Fassin Y. (2009). The Stakeholder Model Refined. Journal of Business Ethics, 84(1), 113-135.

10. Freeman E. (1984). Strategic Management: A Stakeholder Approach.

11. Freeman E., Kujala J., Sachs S., Stutz C. (2018). Stakeholder engagement: practicing the ideas of stakeholder theory.

12. Frooman J. (1999). Stakeholder Influence Strategies. The Academy of Management Review, 24(2), 191-205.

13. Hofstede G. (2001). Culture's Consequences: Comparing Values, Behaviors, Institutions, and Organizations Across Nations.

14. Ladhari R. and Gonthier J. (2019). Generation Y and online fashion shopping: Orientations and profiles. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 48, 113-121.

15. Magness V. (2008). Who are the Stakeholders Now? An Empirical Examination of the Mitchell, Agle, and Wood Theory of Stakeholder Salience. Journal of Business Ethics, 83(2), 177-192.

16. Nguyen, L and Ermasova, N. (2018). Leadership and Stress Orientation of Japanese and Russian Working Adults. Global Business Review, 19(4), 968-987.

17. Osland, J and Osland A. (2006). Expatriate Paradoxes and Cultural Involvement. International Studies of Management & Organization, 35(4), 91-114.

18. Parent M. and Deephouse D. (2007). A Case Study of Stakeholder Identification and Prioritization by Managers. Journal of Business Ethics, 75(1), 1-23.

19. Perminov S. (2013). Fault's price in stakeholder management. Management Today, 1(73), 38-45.

20. Phillips R. (2003). Stakeholder Theory and Its Critics. Stakeholder Theory and Organizational Ethics, 63-84.

21. Ralston, D. (1995). Do Expatriates Change Their Behavior to Fit a Foreign Culture? A Study of American Expatriates' Strategies of Upward Influence. MIR: Management International Review, 35, 109-122.

22. Reinach S. (2011). National Identities and International Recognition. Fashion Theory, 15(2), 267-272.

23. Reinach S. (2012). The Identity of Fashion in Contemporary China and the New Relationships with the West. Fashion Practice, 4(1), 57-70.

24. Ronald K. Mitchell, Bradley R. Agle and Donna J. Wood (1997). Toward a Theory of Stakeholder Identification and Salience: Defining the Principle of Whoand What Really Counts. 4, 853-886

25. Solodkiy S. (2016). Model agencies industry report. Retrieved from https://medium.com/@slavasolodkiy_67243/model-agencies-industry-report-3fe646960242

26. Spector P. (1985). Measurement of human service staff satisfaction: Development of the Job Satisfaction Survey. American Journal of Community Psychology, 693-713.

27. Yamazaki, Y. and Kayes, C. (2004). An Experiential Approach to Cross-Cultural Learning: A Review and Integration of Competencies for Successful Expatriate Adaptation. Academy of Management Learning & Education, 3(4), 362-379.

Appendix 1 - The interview reports - Models

Протокол интервью

Материнское агентство как основной стейкхолдер в карьере модели на азиатском рынке

Время интервью: 12:15 - 12:40

Дата: 25.04.2019

Возраст, количество поездок: 18, 4

Интервью провела: Ковалева Мария

Род занятости: модель

Приветствие: Добрый день, меня зовут Мария. Я студентка бакалавриата Национального исследовательского университета «Высшая школа экономики». Мы проводим исследование роли материнского агентства в карьере модели, работающих на азиатском рынке. Я прошу вас ответить на несколько вопросов, это займет примерно 30 минут. Если вы не возражаете, я буду вести запись нашей беседы.

Определение стейкхолдеров и главного маркета

1. Какие стороны влияют на развитие вашей модельной карьеры?

Думаю, моя карьера в большей степени зависит от меня, моих способностей и желания. Для модели важно иметь хорошие фото в портфолио, это сильно влияет на спрос. Что касается лично меня, для меня важна творческая составляющая в работе, путешествия и денежный вопрос. Деньги нужны всегда, особенно когда не сидишь на шее у родителей и стараешься помочь им теми же самыми деньгами.

2. Кто принимает окончательное решение насчет выбора страны, куда вы едете работать и срок контракта?

Материнское агентство предлагает варианты, советует, потом уже сама решаю, какой из этих вариантов лучший лично для меня в данный момент времени.

3. В каких странах вы чаще всего работаете? Почему?

Корея, Китай и другие страны Азии. Во-первых, на это влияет мой рост, с моим 170 претендовать на подиумы Европы было бы глупо, так популярны высокие модели. Во-вторых, Европа мне не по душе, как с рабочей, так и с жизненной точки зрения. Ну и, в-третьих, побывав в Корее, я просто влюбилась в эту страну, поэтому если подвернётся возможность, я останусь там учиться и жить.

Роль материнского агентства

1. Расскажите, пожалуйста, в каких ситуациях вы взаимодействуете с агентством? Через какие каналы вы взаимодействуете с агентством?

Во всех, когда мне что-то понятно. Я всегда стараюсь уточнить детали у материнского агентства, если не уверена в чем-то. Мы держим связь через месенджеры, в основном «WhatsApp» и «WeChat», если я работаю в Китае.

2. В каких рабочих ситуациях материнское агентство вам помогает?

Во всех. Материнское агентство всегда на связи с принимающим агентством, и, если случается какая-то чрезвычайная ситуация, на которое принимающее агентство закрывает глаза или просто не в состоянии решить проблему, то тут уже мои права отстаивает материнское.

3. С какими трудностями во время сотрудничества с материнским агентством вы сталкивались?

За все время работы у меня не возникало трудностей, и, конечно, я надеюсь, что их не будет в дальнейшем.

4. Какова, на ваш взгляд, роль материнского агентства в вашей модельной карьере?

Материнское агентство даёт мне работу, опекает меня, решает проблемы с принимающим агентством. Очень важно чувствовать себя защищённой кем-то, знать, что если что, то за тебя заступятся, когда ты находишься в чужой стране.

5. Что делает для вас материнское агентство, чтобы продвигать вас на рынке и выстроить вашу карьеру?

Я не строю карьеру, я считаю, что в Азии такое невозможно. Именно мое агентство само занимается моим буком, оно лучше знает, какие фото будут востребованы на том или ином рынке, плюс, они смотрят на фото со стороны, что тоже важно. Также агентство дает разнообразные советы, подкрепленные их опытом. И, самое важное, оно контролирует мои параметры.

6. Был ли у вас опыт взаимодействия с другими материнскими агентствами? Какой?

Да, был и не очень хороший. Тогда материнское агентство находилось в моем городе. Целый год мне не могли найти контракт, как выяснилось позже, они его и не искали. Я как бы числилась у них, но не работала вообще. А контракт разрывать не могла, но по истечению срока нашла нынешнее агентство, и поняла разницу.

Удовлетворенность работой агентства

1. Каковы были ваши ожидания от работы с материнским агентством? Оправдались ли они? В чем? Почему?

Предыдущий опыт сказался, и ожиданий от нового агентства не было совсем. Но после того, как мне нашли контракт за 2 дня, я была очень довольна результатом.

2. Что больше всего вы цените в работе с материнским агентством?

Я ценю отзывчивость персонала в моем агентстве. Они дают развернутые ответы на мои вопросы, проявляют интерес к моей работе. Им важно, что и как у меня проходит, и я чувствую, что меня не бросят в трудную минуту.

3. Вам нравится работать с материнским агентством? Почему?

Да, потому что меня все устраивает в их работе. Оно выполняет все, что должно и даже немного больше.

4. Что вам не нравится в работе с материнским агентством? Почему?

Всё устраивает.

5. Считаете ли вы, что процент, взимаемый материнским агентством, соответствует проделанной им работе? Почему?

Да, потому что материнское агентство оказывает помощь девочкам на контракте, решает вопросы и недопонимания с принимающим и так далее. Потому что люди там работают, тратят время, и это должно быть вознаграждено. Но если материнское агентство просто дает тебе контракт, а потом отвечает на твои вопросы раз в неделю и не может урегулировать конфликты с принимающим, то конечно стоит задуматься о смене агентства.

6. Рассматриваете ли вы вариант работы без материнского агентства в качестве фрилансера? Почему?

Я очень видела много фрилансеров в Азии, и у каждого своя судьба. Почти 70% из них вообще никак не связаны с моделингом. Уже семейные девушки, студентки и это только подработка. Конечно, есть люди, которые остались фрилансить после контрактов или специально приехали для этого, но это палка о двух концах. Когда я захочу учиться или буду жить в Корее, я буду фрилансить. А так, это очень большие риски, начиная от визы и заканчивая нарушением закона и депортом.

Протокол интервью

Материнское агентство как основной стейкхолдер в карьере модели на азиатском рынке

Время интервью: 13:50 - 14:20

Дата: 25.04.2019

Возраст, количество поездок: 20, 2

Интервью провела: Точилова Людмила

Род занятости: модель

Приветствие: Добрый день, меня зовут Людмила. Я студентка бакалавриата Национального исследовательского университета «Высшая школа экономики». Мы проводим исследование роли материнского агентства в карьере модели, работающих на азиатском рынке. Я прошу вас ответить на несколько вопросов, это займет примерно 30 минут. Если вы не возражаете, я буду вести запись нашей беседы.

Определение стейкхолдеров и главного маркета

1. Какие стороны влияют на развитие вашей модельной карьеры?

На это влияют мои личные качества, такие как харизма, то, как я подаю себя на кастингах и моя личность в целом. Как ни странно, но клиентам важно какой ты человек, какие у тебя увлечения и так далее.

2. Кто принимает окончательное решение насчет выбора страны, куда вы едете работать и срок контракта?

Это решает материнское агентство, если агентство хорошее, то оно спрашивает у модели куда бы она хотела поехать и если желания модели и агентства совпадают, то отправляют туда.

3. В каких странах вы чаще всего работаете? Почему?

Пока что я работа только в Китае, думаю, что в других странах я могу просто не попадать по типажу.